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It’s time we shook off the notion that pink wine is that sweet, sticky stuff that our grandmas liked to sip on the porch. Rosé, in its many variations, is a refreshing and sophisticated wine that pairs with everything, thanks to its multifaceted characteristics. Rosé wines are delicious, and so perfect for our cuisine and climate that they should be considered the National Wine of Texas.
True, not everything pink is pretty. Personally, I am not a fan of sweet, sticky, mass-produced blush wines, but I am downright crazy for a dry rosé. My personal advice would be: if the label says “white zinfandel” or “blush,” stay away unless you are looking for the sweet stuff. These wines are the “training wheels” of the wine world, designed to be sweet, low in alcohol, and easy to drink, appealing to people who otherwise may not drink wine at all. These wines contain a high level of residual sugar, which is the amount of sugars that remain unfermented in the finished wine. Due to high demand by consumers, they are mass-produced in large quantities, often by adding red wine to impart color to a white wine base. Production costs are substantially lower, and fruit quality is not as important to the final taste. So, if inexpensive, fruity, sweet beverages are your cup of tea, then these are ideal choices to fill your wine glass. Now, on to the pink wines I like.
I have always believed that there is a wine for every occasion, time, and place. Therefore, during the summer, I shy away from big reds, and instead enjoy refreshing chilled whites and dry rosés, which to me are like a red wine in a white wine’s body. Rosé is made following different techniques. One is by skin contact, where red-skinned grapes are crushed and the skins are allowed to remain in contact with the juice for a short period of time, after which the skins are discarded rather than left in contact throughout fermentation. The longer the skins are left in contact with the juice, the more intense the color of the wine. Also, the skins contain tannins, so removing them after a short period renders a wine that is more similar in taste to a white wine. Rosé can also be made as a byproduct of red wine making. The method known as saignée (from the French for “bleeding”) consists of removing – or bleeding – some of the pink juice from the must at an early stage. The red wine remaining in the vats is intensified as a result. The extracted pink juice is fermented separately to produce rosé.
Rosé – French for pinkish or “rose-colored” – is the general term used to classify this style of wines, and the one commonly used in the U.S. Other wine-producing countries use their own name for pink, so the Spanish call them rosado and the Italians rosato. Differences in color, flavor profiles and body, also depend on the grapes used to produce the wine and the region where the wine was made. It is easy to find rosés made from Grenache (garnacha, in Spain), Cinsault, Carignane, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec or a combination of them. There are also those made from more esoteric varietals, such as Txakolina from the Basque Country (a rare treat available in limited quantities at Vino Vino) and Grignolino from Asti in Italy. Therefore, rosé wines come in a wide variety of hues, from a very pale, almost peach color to a bright bougainvillea pink, to a light red similar to hibiscus tea. To me, a great thing about rosé wines is their ability to pair well with almost any food imaginable. A light, soft and dry rosé is wonderful with seafood, sushi, vegetable or fruit salads. A medium-bodied, fruity rosé is lovely with Asian cuisine, roasted chicken, grilled veggies. A full bodied, slightly tannic rosé will stand up to a big plate of Texas-style BBQ ribs like nothing else. For any style, freshness is key. Rosé wines are meant to be consumed young and fresh, so for best results, stick with wines that are no more than two years old.
Talking about rosés inevitably makes me think of Jerry Reid, my kindred spirit and brother-in-pink-wine, and one of a few folks in our local wine and food scene who has given rosé wines their well-deserved praise for many years now. He was the founder of Pink Fest at Vino Vino Wine Café – an event that started as a lark and is now in its third year – where $15 buys you a taste of over 50 rosés from around the world, with proceeds benefiting SafePlace Austin. Reid can now be found almost every day at Olivia Restaurant, where he is the general manager and wine buyer. “Rosé is pretty, first and foremost,” he says when I ask why he is so in love with the pink wine. “There is nothing as gorgeous as a glass of rosé. They are equalizing wines, they cleanse and fill up the palate at the same time. Plus, the diversity in the palate is so much wider than that of reds, anything from savory tomato and ocean breeze to tangy rhubarb, sweet, bright raspberries and cherries,” he gleams. “They are the perfect bridge between red and white wine flavor profiles,” he says, super-enthusiastically. Indeed, on my recent visit I found at least 15 different rosés, still and sparkling, from many wine-producing regions in the world. I feel like a kid in a candy store. So many rosés I’d never seen before! Upon his recommendation, we ordered a nice glass of Domaine de la Petit Marie Bourgueil rosé of Cabernet Franc from the Loire. Almost peachy in hue, dry and refreshing, we paired it with a plate of ivory salmon carpaccio with tiny melon balls and shaved fresh asparagus. Oh man, was that good. We moved on to Chateau Valcombe’s Côtes de Ventoux rosé, made from Syrah and Grenache – ultra-dry, lots of minerality and a light tinge of grapefruit; then on to the bright Rosa del Golfo Rosato del Salento, a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasía that was pure watermelon in a glass. “Rosés are wines with flavor,” says Reid. And indeed, this is why they pair so well with so many wonderful foods but are just as wonderful when sipped by themselves.
In Austin, rosés are finding a wider, more receptive audience each year, and this is good news for those of us who love drinking them as more variety is available in restaurants and retail stores. Texas wineries such as McPherson, Driftwood Vineyards, Texas Hills Vineyards and Brennan Vineyards, among others, are bottling good, homegrown rosés. Considering our climate is pretty much summer for eight months out of the year, these wines are perfect not only for seasonal consumption, but year-round as well. Heck, a nice rosé of Pinot Noir or Sangiovese would be lovely at the Thanksgiving table. So there you have it, go ahead and shake the fear of the pink wine and explore some wonderful rosés.
Where to Find Rosé in Austin
The following are restaurants, wine bars and retailers that offer a variety of rosés on their wine list or to take home. These establishments have knowledgable staff that will be able to help you make the right choices for your taste.
Aquarelle Restaurant and Wine Bar
606 Rio Grande. 512.479.8117
Over eight rosés available by the glass or bottle. Selections change frequently.
Austin Wine Merchant
512. W. 6th St. 512.499.0512
Beverage World
1948 S. I-35. 512.440.7778
Excellent French selection.
Central Market
4001 N. Lamar Blvd. 512.206.1000
4477 S. Lamar Blvd. 512.899.4300
Olivia
2043 S. Lamar Blvd. 512.804.2700
At least 15 selections of still and sparkling rosés. List changes frequently.
Perla’s
1400 S. Congress, Ste. B100. 512.291.6031
Currently, about eight selections are available, including the unusual Grignolino d’ Asti.
SPEC’s
Multiple locations. 512.342.6893
Thom’s Market
1418 Barton Springs Rd. 512.479.9800
Twin liquors
Multiple locations. 512.451.7400
Uncorked
900 E. 7th St. 512.524.2809
Rosé flight available.
Vino Vino
4119 Guadalupe. 512.465.9282
Always a wide selection of bottles and a few by the glass. Anything purchased in house can be opened at the bar. Ask for the rosé Txakolina.
Whip-In
1950 S. I-35. 512.442.5337